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When it comes to skincare, it seems like retinol is at the forefront. Used for decades to correct and address skin issues common to aging skin like wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots, retinol has been seen as the go-to product to maintain healthy skin. However, for some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin, retinol has been less associated with healthy glowing skin and more with redness, flaking, and skin irritation. Is there an alternative for individuals interested in skincare but don’t wish to use retinol in their skincare routine?
There is, and it is called bakuchiol.
Bakuchiol has gained popularity as a retinol alternative that may offer all of the benefits of retinol with none of the side effects, especially for those with sensitive skin.
Bakuchiol serum is a skincare product with bakuchiol as a main ingredient. Bakuchiol is a natural chemical compound derived from the seeds and fruit of Psoralea corylifolia, a plant used widely in ancient medicinal practices like Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine. Research indicates that bakuchiol may have many uses, ranging from being used as an antifungal to managing symptoms that can arise after menopause.
While bakuchiol may have several uses, bakuchiol serum is mostly used to promote skin health by acting as a powerful antioxidant and potentially boosting collagen production. Interest in bakuchiol serum can mostly be attributed to the company Avene, a skincare brand that brought widespread consumer attention to the serum. In fact, over the past 5 years, searches for Avene have risen by an astounding 207%.
Although Avene may be at the forefront of the explosion of interest in bakuchiol serum, a number of other high-quality brands focused on beauty and skincare are beginning to offer the product. The widespread interest in bakuchiol serum for healthy skin may be linked to studies that suggest bakuchiol serum may also benefit skin health by reducing wrinkles and fine lines, decreasing skin discoloration, and even potential anti-skin-cancer activity.
Furthermore, studies suggest that bakuchiol serum may offer many of the same benefits as retinol cream without any adverse effects.
Bakuchiol serum may have some amazing health benefits for the skin, especially for those who struggle with sensitive skin and cannot use retinol. Studies suggest bakuchiol serum may act as a potent antioxidant. By scavenging free radicals, bakuchiol serum may help reduce free radical damage, which is linked to decreased longevity. An increase in free radical damage in the skin is associated with decreased elasticity, an increase in wrinkles and dark spots, and an increased risk of developing skin cancer.
Research indicates that bakuchiol serum may help to protect against free radicals and ultraviolet A or UVA damage. UVA rays come from the sun and penetrate deep into the skin. Exposure to UVA radiation is linked to long-term skin damage like wrinkles, sun spots, and increased skin cancer risk.
One study involved participants using a topical bakuchiol serum alone or another treatment, a Tahitian vanilla extract, twice a day for 56 days to determine the effects of the treatment on UVA exposure to the skin. At the end of the study, 26 participants saw a reduction in droopiness of the face by up to 23%. The average reduction rate was 11%. Furthermore, skin radiance was improved by an average of 29% in 33 participants. Interestingly, the study found that bakuchiol serum could reduce the skin's inflammatory response when exposed to UVA radiation, thereby protecting the skin from sun damage.
Studies suggest that bakuchiol serum may help to enhance collagen production. Collagen is a protein made by the body. It is a vital component in body structures like ligaments and tendons.
Collagen production is also necessary for strong, supple, and smooth skin. Unfortunately, collagen production decreases with aging. Studies suggest that collagen production decreases around the mid-20s to early 30s, with a noticeable loss of skin elasticity in the 40s and 50s.
Bakuchiol serum may help decrease collagen loss and the associated wrinkles and fine lines. Multiple studies have found that bakuchiol serum improves the appearance of naturally aged skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
For example, five studies with over 100 participants found that using bakuchiol serum for 12 weeks reduced skin redness, wrinkles, and fine lines. There was also an increase in skin firmness and overall skin appearance. Studies also suggest that bakuchiol stimulates cells called fibroblasts to produce more collagen, which leads to firmer, smoother skin.
Studies suggest bakuchiol serum may act as a potent antioxidant. By scavenging free radicals, bakuchiol serum may help to reduce free radical damage. Many factors, including excessive alcohol use, a nutrient-deficient diet, and skin exposure to ultraviolet radiation from the sun, often cause free radical damage to the skin. Increased free radical damage is associated with decreased elasticity, increased wrinkles and dark spots, and an increased risk of developing chronic skin disease.
Since bakuchiol serum may act as an antioxidant, much like vitamin C or vitamin E, topical use may help reduce skin damage signs. One study followed 60 female participants with mild to moderate sun damage as well as sensitive skin. One-third of the participants had eczema, another one-third had rosacea, and the final one-third had an intolerance to cosmetics. The participants used bakuchiol serum and a moisturizer twice daily for 4 weeks. After the 4-week period, the study found that all participants saw an improvement in both the look and feel of the smoothness of their skin.
The study also found that there was a decrease in blemishes, an increase in radiance, and an increase in the overall appearance of the skin. Bakuchiol serum also had an anti-aging effect on the skin. Furthermore, none of the participants reported side effects like burning, redness or stinging.
Research indicates that bakuchiol may have protective properties, especially with respect to the skin. One study in vitro, or test tube, found that bakuchiol suppresses biological pathways that increase cancer cell formation.
Another study found that bakuchiol administration to melanoma cells helped to inhibit their growth. Melanoma is a type of malignant cancer involving the cells that make melanin and give color to the skin. The study showed that bakuchiol also helped to increase programmed cell death, or apoptosis, of cancer cells by acting as an anti-inflammatory agent.
Another animal study found that bakuchiol could reduce tumor growth in mice. Studies also indicate that bakuchiol use may benefit those suffering from psoriasis because of its anti-inflammatory properties.
Bakuchiol serum has been compared to retinol in effectiveness in skin health. Retinol is a form of vitamin A known for beneficial effects on skin health, like improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and increasing collagen production. A downside of retinol use is that some individuals, especially those with sensitive skin, may experience adverse effects like skin irritation, burning, redness, dryness, and flaking.
Research indicates that bakuchiol serum may offer the same benefits as retinol without side effects.
For example, one study compared the effects of bakuchiol or retinol on aging skin and skin that had been damaged. This study used a combination of in vitro, in vivo, and ex vivo testing. In vitro testing involves test tubes, while in vivo testing is done on living participants. Ex vivo testing occurs when tissue samples are taken from living participants.
The study found that bakuchiol serum acted as a strong antioxidant while retinol did not. The study also found that bakuchiol serum promoted collagen protein synthesis as well as retinol. There was also a significant increase in the growth of new skin cells over 4 weeks in areas that were wounded and treated with bakuchiol serum.
Another randomized, double-blind study compared the effects of retinol against those of bakuchiol for facial anti-aging. The study followed 44 participants over a 12-week period who were assigned to either use a 0.5% bakuchiol cream or a 0.5% regional cream topically twice a day. The study found that both bakuchiol serum and retinol had similar effects. Both compounds significantly reduced wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots, but those who used bakuchiol didn’t report any adverse effects. Those using the retinol did report more dry, flaky facial skin and stinging.
Bakuchiol serum is a popular alternative to retinol-based skincare formulas. This powerful serum may act as a potent antioxidant and a collagen booster and may even have anticancer properties. For long-lasting healthy, glowing, and supple skin, bakuchiol serum is a great supplement to every skincare routine.
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By Dr. Candace Mathers, N.D.
